Climbed a Volcano, and I Turned around

I was told that Sicily was different from the rest of Italy, but I didn’t quite know what that meant in reality. And then I flew to Catania, boarded a bus that took us from the plane to the main terminal, and noticed that the bus was filling up with plumes of cotton candy-scented vapor. I looked behind me and saw that a group of young men were vaping as if they weren’t in an enclosed bus. And in that moment, I thought, ‘Ah. I see you, Sicily.’

Donkey-less in Catania

My arrival in Catania was pretty wonderful (vape bros on the bus notwithstanding). I had a taxi driver who I really connected with and came to adore over the course of the ride. When we first left the airport, he gestured to the sad, dilapidated buildings surrounding the airport and said to me, in Italian, “This isn’t Sicily. Don’t look. I will tell you when we’re in Sicily and you can look.” We talked the entire way and when we finally “arrived” in Sicily, it was chaotic and exciting. Of all places I’d been in Italy thus far, it was most similar to Naples, but perhaps a bit less colorful. More spread out. And maybe a bit more Mediterranean. I don’t know, it’s hard to explain. Watch this video to see what I mean.

I’ve stayed in some great and not-so-great places on this trip, but my hotel in Catania was a stand out. It describes itself as an “art” hotel, which meant crazy statues, bizarre artwork, and perplexing things written in neon. My room was in the “neoclassical” wing though and they upgraded me to the Berini Suite (named after the famous composer, of whom Catania is very proud). My room had a baby grand piano, giant mirrors, and all of the French windows opened up to little balconies with views of the beautiful buildings across the way and the bustling street below. And in the mornings, breakfast was served on a balcony overlooking a busy piazza on the other side of the hotel, overflowing with lush plants. Each morning, large groups of birds performed for us, flying high and then swooping low while Sicilians set up their vegetable stands for the day below. It was a beautiful way to start the day and one of the best breakfasts I had during my trip.

And then there was my visit to Mount Etna, Italy’s largest active volcano. The main reason why I came to Sicily in the first place was because my sister loves the Golden Girls and wanted me to “ride up the mountain on a donkey like Sophia.” I couldn’t find a donkey tour of Mt. Etna, but I did find a guided hike. The logistics of the tour were…challenging. But it was pretty spectacular to walk through volcanic rocks and see the tendrils of smoke rising from the top of the volcano. 

Okay, I know, I know. I can feel you all wanting me to elaborate on “challenging.” It’s kind of boring to go into in any detail, but basically we had to do a whole out-of-the-way stop to get outfitted with “proper” shoes and jackets. But when we were hiking, it really didn’t seem necessary, as the “hike” was pretty light and easy. (Or, to put it more bluntly, as I did in my notes from that day: “I saw literal babies wearing flip flops along the way.”)

The best part of the experience was post-hike, when we went to a beautiful little park near the volcano and got to feast on trays of Sicilian lunch pastries. And some wine, of course. Most everyone on the tour spoke either Italian or English, so I was lucky to get to participate in both conversations. My proudest moment was getting a laugh out to the Italians when I told them about my experience driving in Naples.

Catania is definitely a beautiful city, but I also felt a little sad there because so many things were closed (most likely because of the pandemic). For example, one day I tried to have lunch at three different restaurants recommended by my guide books and all of them were permanently closed.

One final thing on Catania: On the day I went to do laundry, I realized that there were some ruins a block away. So while my clothes were in the wash, I got to pop across the street and explore an ancient amphitheater, now partly flooded. Totally one of those “only in Italy” moments.

Petrified and Praying in Palermo

My options to get from one side of Sicily (Catania) to the other (Palermo), were limited and I’m not a huge fan of buses, so I rented a car for the day. The drive was beautiful, mostly made up of wide, grassy expanses. I stopped at a beach along the way for a swim, which was fun and refreshing. The arrival into Palermo was stunning, as the city is surrounded by towering, jagged mountains that seem to rise straight up and are topped with vibrant green. Very Jurassic Park. Driving in Palermo, however, was not spectacular. If Naples was my benchmark of difficult driving condition in Italy, Palermo ate it for breakfast. I literally prayed the entire time, from when I entered the outskirts of the city until I dropped my car off at Hertz.

A Turn for the Worse

In the days leading up to my arrival in Palermo, I often asked myself if I was getting sick when I would write my daily notes in the evening. But each day, I chalked it up to just being tired. As I was planning my trip to Italy, I’d read that you should plan a vacation from your vacation. But I wasn’t sure when I was going to want a vacation, so I kind of just figured that I would take a weekend off when I needed it along the way. When I said goodbye to Dean in Rome, I realized that I was ready for that vacation. I was completely exhausted.

And on my first full day in Palermo, I finally had to admit it to myself: I was sick.

Based on tests I took, I don’t think it was COVID. But, I had something because I had a slight fever and felt ache-ey. So I spent most of my time in Palermo in bed, or taking short, atmospheric walks that I recall in a hazy, sickly tinge.

On my last day, I felt well enough to do a longer walk and visited Cappella Palatina, a stunning chapel lined with glittering gold mosaics.

But if I’m being honest with myself, my time in Sicily was a bit of a bust. It felt like I got a small taste of what makes it so special, but overall, I spent most of the week wondering if I was okay, while not really feeling okay. Luckily, by the time I flew back to mainland Italy, I was feeling better. And if there was ever a time for me to be healthy and in good spirits, it was for what was to come next: Florence.